** NOTE: Pics of me SURFING to come soon!!!!
On Thursday May 12 I spent 10 hours in a bus traveling to “Spot X” where I would spend the next two nights at Mojo Surf School, (www.mojosurf.com) located off of Coffs Harbor.
Ian and I arrived at the surf camp at 4pm, taking it easy and receiving a tour of the camp followed by a delicious dinner (all meals were included with our 2 Night “Stay and Play” Package) and relaxing by the fire. It was a hot and sunny day at surf camp, but come nightfall it was absolutely FREEZING! I felt like I had never been so cold in my life. Apparently it dropped to about 3 degrees, which explains why I was constantly shaking throughout the night in my trailer-like accommodation.
I woke up the next morning (Friday May 13) at 7am to be out and surfing for 8am. Our small group of about 7 slowly put on our damp, cold wetsuits and carried our surfboards to the beach. It was another beautiful day, and as I was walking in my wetsuit across the beach with the sun shining while carrying my board and my beach hair flowing in the wind – I actually felt like a surfer, and I won’t lie, I felt so cool.
Our surf instructor, Rai, taught us the basic rules of surfing: how to pick out the good waves, how to get up on your surf board, how to balance and stay on the board, and what to do if you get sucked under a wave…
At first I was so stoked for surf, but then after learning so much in 10 minutes I was SO nervous. Before I knew I we were walking into the ocean with our boards and searching for sweet waves to ride. As I looked up, the sky was so blue and I could see some butterflies flying around above us. We even spotted some dolphins swimming in the distance!!! It was so beautiful, and in that moment I knew I was ready to surf.
Believe it or not, I actually got up on my board several times! The waves were perfect and I was so proud of myself because I was actually doing a good job! I couldn’t believe it (I’m NOT athletic what-so-ever). I got up on my board and surfed at almost every attempt.
The following day (Saturday May 14) we surfed at 9am. I was confident and ready to take on the waters, however the waves today were not as good as yesterdays. Our group consisted of people who had 1 previous surfing lesson (me) to those who had 7 surfing lessons. Our surf instructor today, Maddi, said the waves were “dumping” and sucking under instead of flowing, so every time any of us would try to get on our board it was a complete fail. A few people with more experience got up, but most of us only got on our board a few times. It was pretty exhausting and kind of frustrating (thinking I would be better today then yesterday), but it all had to do with the current weather and the time of day.
I’m super proud of myself for being able to surf and giving it all I had! It was such a cool experience and everyone needs to try to surf at least once in their life!
But let me tell you… I woke up this morning (Sunday May 15) so incredibly sore. My poor, poor body.